Whether you arrive by air at Paro or by road at Phuentsholing, your first impression of Bhutan is one of stepping into a world that you thought existed only in storybooks or your imagination. Western Bhutan is the heartland of the Drukpa people, and here you are confronted with the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs (fort-monastery) in the kingdom. You will soon realize you are well off the beaten path of world tourism and far away from whichever culture you call home.

The rugged Black Mountain range forms a barrier that separates western Bhutan from the rest of the country. There are three major river systems in western Bhutan: the Torsa Chhu in the south-west, the Wang Chhu in the west and the Puna Tsang Chhu to the east. The Wang Chhu and Puna Tsang Chhu are separated by a range of hills that extend from the Tibetan border in the north to the Indian border in the south. The only road across this range traverses the Dochu La at an elevation of 3140m, between Thimpu and Punakha.

Paro Dzong - The Paro Dzong is one of Bhutan's most impressive and well-known dzongs, and the finest example of Bhutanese architecture. The inward-sloping walls form a massive structure that towers over the town and is visible as a great white monolith from vantage points throughout the valley.

The dzong's correct name, Rinchen Pung Dzong, means 'fortress on a heap of jewels'. In 1644, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal ordered the construction of the dzong on the foundation of a monastery built by Guru Rinpoche. One of Bhutan's strongest and most important fortresses, it was used on numerous occasions to defend the Paro valley from invasions by Tibet. John Claude White reported that in 1905 there were old catapults for throwing great stones stored in the rafters of the dzong's veranda.

The dzong survived the 1897 earthquake and caught fire only once, in 1907. The fire severely damaged the dzong, and it was rebuilt the following year. Large statues of Sakyamuni, Guru Rinpoche and Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal were installed during the reconstruction. The dzong was formerly the meeting hall for the National Assembly and now houses a monastic school and district government offices.

The dzong is built on a steep hillside, and a road climbs the hill to the dzong's entrance, which leads into the dochey (courtyard) on the 3^rd storey. The utse (central tower) inside the dochey is five storeys tall and was built in the time of the first penlop (regional governor, literally 'lord-teacher') of Paro in 1649. There are two lhakhangs (temples) on the utse's top storey which have excellent wood carvings on the beams. To the east of the utse is another small Lhakhang dedicated to Chuchizhey, an11-headed manifestation of Chenresig.

A stairway leads down to the monastic quarter, which houses about 200 monks. In the south-east corner is the kunre, which is where the monks eat their communal meals. Numerous paintings adorn the walls in front of this structure, including an unusual Bhutanese mystic spiral interpretation of a mandala (cosmic diagram). On the opposite side of the monastic dochey is the large dukhang (assembly hall). The paintings on the porch of this building depict the life of Milarepa.

Outside the dzong, to the north-east of the entrance, are the archery competition field and a stone-paved area where the dancers perform the Paro tsechu (a tsechu is a series of dances in honor of Guru Rinpoche) each spring. A thondrol (huge thangka) more than 18m square is unfurled early in the morning on the final day of the tsechu. It depicts Guru Rinpoche as the central figure. It was commissioned in the 18th century by the eighth desi (secular ruler of Bhutan, also known as druk desi), Chhogyel Sherab Wangchuck.

Drukgyel Dzong - 14km from Paro, stand the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong. This dzong was built in 1649 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in a location chosen for its control of the route to Tibet. The dzong was named ‘Druk’ (Bhutan) ‘gyel’ (victory) to commemorate the victory of Bhutan over Tibetan invaders in 1644. One of the features of the dzong was a false entrance that was designed to lure invaders into an enclosed courtyard. This is said to have worked successfully during the second attack by Tibetan invaders in 1648.

The dzong sits at the point where the trail from Tibet via the Tremo La enters the Paro valley. Once the Tibetan invasions ceased, this became a major trade route between Bhutan and the Tibetan town of Phari. A small amount of informal trade continues to the present day. On a clear day there is a spectacular view of Jhomolhari from the area near the dzong.

Taktshang Goemba - Taktshang is the most famous of Bhutan’s monasteries, perched on the side of a cliff 900m above the floor of Paro valley, where the only sounds are the murmurs of wind and water and the chanting of monks. The name means 'tiger's nest' and the Guru is said to have flown to the site of the monastery on the back of a tigress. He then meditated in a cave here for three months.

After a fire in 1998 destroyed the main structure of Taktshang and all its contents, authentic replicas of the original structures have been built.

The site has long been recognized as a holy place. It was visited by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1646 and pilgrims from all over Bhutan come here. Milarepa is also to have meditated here, while Thangtong Gyalpo revealed a terma (treasure text) Taktshang. The primary Lhakhang was built in 1692 around the Dubkhang (also called Pelphug), the holy cave in which Guru Rinpoche meditated, by the Penlop of Paro, Gee Tenzi Rabgye. There are several other buildings in the complex. Phorbu Lhakhang contains a phorbu, the three-bladed ritual dagger used to stab demons. Above the main temple complex is Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang, and higher still is another goemba, named Zangto Pelri after Guru Rinpoche’s heavenly abode.

Ugyen Pelri Palace - Ugyen Pelri Palace is in a secluded wooded compound on the south side of the river just west of the dzong. This palace was built by the Paro Penlop, Tshering Penjor, in the early 1900s and is now a residence of the queen mother. It is designed after Guru Rinpoche’s celestial paradise, Zangto Pelri, and is one of the most beautiful examples of Bhutanese architecture.

On the road beside Ugyen Pelri Palace are five square chortens that were built in memory of the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck. Monks will remind you if you forget to walk to the left of these chortens.

Kyichu Lhakhang - This temple is said to have been built in 659 by King Songtsen Gampo of Tibet. It holds down the left foot of an ogress whose body is so large that it covers Bhutan and most of eastern Tibet.

The original building was rebuilt after a fire with a large statue of Sakyamuni as the centre figure. Additional buildings were constructed in 1839 by the Penlop of Paro and the 25^th Je Khenpo. A large statue of Chenresig with 11 heads and 1000 hands was added at that time, as well as a golden roof.

National Museum - At the top of the hill above Paro Dzong is an old structure that was renovated in 1968 to house the National Museum, also known as Ta Dzong. This unusual round building is said to be in the shape of a conch shell; it was completed in 1656 and was originally the Ta Dzong (watchtower) of Paro Dzong. There is a specific route to follow through the entire building that ensures that you walk clockwise around important images.

There are six floors of galleries, each with a special emphasis. Among the exhibits is a spectacular collection of thangkas, both ancient and modern. Of particular importance are thangkas depicting Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the first Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot of Bhutan) and the first druk desi. Other thangkas portray all of Bhutan's important saints and teachers.

There is a display of Bhutan's expensive philatelic collection on the top floor. At the end of the gallery a doorway leads to the Tshogshing Lhakhang, the Temple of the Tree of Wisdom, which was built between 1965 and 1968.

The centerpiece of this temple is a complex four-sided carving depicting the history of Buddhism and its propagation. On one side are Sakyamuni and the great teacher Atisha, representing the Sakya School. On another side are Gelug, a disciple of the Dalai Lama, and Dagpo Lhaje, representing the Gelug lineage. Another side represents the Nyingma lineage, with Guru Rinpoche as the centerpiece. Finally, another side are Drukpa Kagyu with figures of Vajra Dhara, Marpa, Milarepa and the Indian teachers Naropa and Tilopa.

Other galleries include ancient bronze and stone objects, an exquisite collection of bronze statues and a display of ancient weapons and shields, many captured during various Tibetan invasions. There are stuffed animals, old and new household objects, jewellery and decorative arts on the lower floors.